Renegade Rums

What's this, rum?  Some may think that spirits don't belong in the same class as wine appreciation, but they would be sorely mistaken.  Of course, there are exceptions.  We don't go around quaffing Popov vodka and sipping on Jim Beam like we would a fine scotch or a high end gin.  The same goes for rum.  While many people may find satisfaction in taking swigs out of Bacardi bottles, there are many distilleries producing some aged rums that can compete with the worlds finest single malt scotches.  One such example is the Renegade Rum Company.  The company has hand-picked rums from single-vintages (a first in the rum industry), and brought them to Scotland, where they are bottled at the Bruichladdich (pronounced brook-ladee) Distillery in Islay (eye-la).

The truly unique thing about Renegade is the additional "evolution" the rums undergo in any number of specially selected used wood casks.  There is one finished in port wood, one in madeira, even one in Chateau Y'quem casks.  For those who don't know, the latter is perhaps the most well-known producer of Sauternes in the world.  In addition to the enhanced aging process, these rums are, as previously mentioned, single-vintage.  Instead of blending cuvees from different times to achieve a uniform flavor, these rums showboat like wines, boasting precise years and locations for their births.

I recently had the opportunity to try four of Renegade's current offerings, all of which were enjoyable to say the least.  However, the one that stood out the most (and which I will most certainly buy if I can ever get my hands on it) is the Hampden, Jamaica 1992 rum finished in used Chateau Latour casks.  With a grand cru Bordeaux as its previous occupant, these casks were sure to impart something special to the rum.  And indeed they did.

What one first notices is the unusual copper rose-like color of the spirit.  To the nose, it is nothing but rich butterscotch with some floral and funky notes, undoubtedly attributed to the Latour casks.  I was brought back instantly to memories of butter rum LifeSavers.  On the palate, it is once again pure butterscotch.  There are also some mild wine-like fruity undertones, but really this is liquid candy.

Tasting Summary:

Color- copper rose

Bouquet- butterscotch, floral notes

Palate- butterscotch, fruitcake

I would be lying if I said this didn't blow me away.  The second time I tried this rum, I just stood there sniffing it.  The nose is so intoxicating it's hard to put down, which might prove dangerous to some.  Going down, this is smoother than any other spirit I've ever tried.  The alcohol is so well-integrated that you barely notice its presence until you've plowed through your second or third pour and try to stand up without smiling.  A terrific alternative to a dessert wine or scotch.  In fact, this is dessert!  Keep around at all times.  97/100

La Linda Torrontes 2007

Torrontes is a little known grape that is beginning to find its way into the American market. Grown mostly in Argentina, this grape produces distinctive, floral wines with unique character. Crios has been very popular, but I find the La Linda torrontes more seductive.

Tasting Summary:

Color- clear greenish pale straw

Bouquet- melon, citrus, woody vanilla

Palate- stone fruits- peach, nectarine, citrus

With a surprising weight on the palate and a creamy texture, this torrontes showcases more of the fruity characteristics of this grape. The spicy floral notes of other torrontes take a back seat here. Although the alcohol could be slightly more integrated, for the price, you can't beat the value here. Not too acidic, and not too sweet. A lovely and pleasant balance for a refreshing white by itself or with some cheeses such as ricotta, or with smoked meats, even foie gras. Change the pace with torrontes.  91/100

Luigi Bosca DOC Malbec 2004

As any observant individual can see, I review a large proportion of Argentinean wines, most notably malbec.  Well, here we have another terrific example of how this grape is fast becoming a noble variety on par with many Cabernets and Syrahs.  In France the Malbec plays a mostly subordinate role in winemaking, relegating it to a blending grape in Bordeaux, or in the case of the Cahors appellation, a dustier and lighter version of its lustrous cousin in South America.  Somehow, in the hills of Mendoza, this fruit thrives to become a chewy, floral, fragrant intoxicant, barely reminiscent of its French counterpart.  

Luigi Bosca has once again proved itself a master at taming this juicy beast with a DOC malbec.  Yes, a DOC.  In fact, Luigi Bosca pioneered the movement to create a DOC especially for malbec.  It was created in 1989 for the Luján de Cuyo region, where the malbec grape is claimed to be indigenous.  DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, an Italian term used to regulate the growing and producing of wines in various regions therein.  In Argentina, it operates in the same respect, controlling the production of wines from this region, guaranteeing origin, and ostensibly, quality.  Anyhow, more information can be found on Luigi Bosca's website here.

Tasting Summary:

Color- intense violet

Bouquet- plum, violets, cassis, mild wet earth.

Palate- plum, ripe black fruits, earth.  Silky tannins.

finish:  coffee, cocoa.  Long and elegant.

An elegant wine with an intoxicating nose, this DOC captures some of the more old world aspects of malbec, while still retaining the brilliant fruit we associate with new world wines.  94/100

Matteo Correggia Roero DOC 2004

Let me start by saying that the Piedmont is one of my favorite wine regions in the world. The nebbiolo grape produces such a wide variety of wines, but they are always bursting with flavor. It is unfortunate that this area takes such a backseat to tuscany, but with lower prices, it is becoming more accessible. This Roero (which is a DOC area adjacent to Barolo) wasn't terribly complex, but was enjoyable nonetheless.

Color- Bright ruby red

Bouquet- lacquer, strawberry, light oak and vanilly notes

Palate- Bright acidity with floral qualities. Bright red berries, sticky tannins and mild oak. Medium long finish with lasting hazelnut flavors.

This wine opened up very nicely, and definitely benefits from some breathing time. The acidity is bright and so pairs better with food than by itself. I had it with a pasta bolognese, which worked, although a darker wine would have been preferable. This could be served with some meat dishes and the usual Northern Italian fare. Overall a nice nebbiolo for around 20 dollars, and a better value than some high end barolos. 90/100

Alamos Malbec 2006

Maybe it was just me, but I was a trifle disappointed with this wine. Catena's reputation bolsters it's ability to sell it's brands, even if the wine is subpar. In the past, Alamos has proven a solid, reliable buy for malbec drinkers, but perhaps the '06 is just too young. It seems promising at first, with a brilliant dark ruby color and plum, prune and jammy notes on the nose. But on the palate, the lightly spiced dark berry fruits are overwhelmed by unchecked acidity and rough tannins. Full bodied with hints of mild grassy earth and cocoa on the finish, Alamos under-delivered for me. The flavor is there, but the alcohol is not integrated as well as it should be. There are better values out there for malbec lovers. 83/100

Finca La Linda Extra Brut

Another wine from Luigi Bosca, this time with some bubbles. Although the wine-maker claims there to be little to no oak in the aging of the wine, I found it to be quite oaky in character. Perhaps the production method of this sparkler has changed. In either case, it was decadently rich and decidedly enjoyable.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Finca La Linda Extra Brut
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: n/a
Grape Varieties: 50% Chardonnay, 50% Semillon (12% alc.)

Color: Rich golden straw
Nose: apple, strawberry, oak, vanilla, touch of cinnamon at the end.
Palate:

• start- creamy rich, toasty, refreshing acidity, spiced baked apples, quince, and yeast
• bubbles- surprisingly light
• finish- creamy and long

Pair With: manchego cheese with quince paste, west coast oysters, and scallops.
The Last Word: A brilliant compromise to Champagne and Prosecco, although perhaps too rich for some. I would have preferred a little less oak and more bubbles. In the end, nicely balanced and tasty. 90/100

Tikal Patriota 2005

I did like this wine, but it wasn't my favorite, so I'll keep it short.

Tikal is owned by Ernesto Catena. He named this particular wine “Patriota” ( “Patriot”) since Bonarda and Malbec grapes have been at the core of Argentina 's great winemaking tradition since its foundation. The original artwork of this passionate dancing couple was created by Ernesto's close friend and artist, Ariel Mlynarzewicz.
Courtesy of VOS Selections

I suppose I was just expecting this wine to be bigger and bolder. It seems that way at first, but after having a glass, it just feels a little thin on the palate. In addition, the finish was somewhat abrupt. The taste is there, but it doesn't fully deliver. Nevertheless, it possess an elegant bouquet, which is continually enticing.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Tikal Patriota
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: 2005
Grape Varieties: 60% Bonarda, 40% Malbec

Color: Dark, rich purple rose
Nose: Strawberry, violet, cassis, tobacco, toasted oak
Palate:

• start- light on palate, floral, mild acidity, and dusty fruit

• middle- strawberry jam, raspberry, chocolate, silky tannins

• finish- shorter than expected, with lingering cherry and oak

Pair with: soft cheeses, ratatouille, and grilled kebab.
The Last word: A very pleasant wine to sip on, but falls short of spectacular. 89/100