Alamos Malbec 2006

Maybe it was just me, but I was a trifle disappointed with this wine. Catena's reputation bolsters it's ability to sell it's brands, even if the wine is subpar. In the past, Alamos has proven a solid, reliable buy for malbec drinkers, but perhaps the '06 is just too young. It seems promising at first, with a brilliant dark ruby color and plum, prune and jammy notes on the nose. But on the palate, the lightly spiced dark berry fruits are overwhelmed by unchecked acidity and rough tannins. Full bodied with hints of mild grassy earth and cocoa on the finish, Alamos under-delivered for me. The flavor is there, but the alcohol is not integrated as well as it should be. There are better values out there for malbec lovers. 83/100

Finca La Linda Extra Brut

Another wine from Luigi Bosca, this time with some bubbles. Although the wine-maker claims there to be little to no oak in the aging of the wine, I found it to be quite oaky in character. Perhaps the production method of this sparkler has changed. In either case, it was decadently rich and decidedly enjoyable.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Finca La Linda Extra Brut
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: n/a
Grape Varieties: 50% Chardonnay, 50% Semillon (12% alc.)

Color: Rich golden straw
Nose: apple, strawberry, oak, vanilla, touch of cinnamon at the end.
Palate:

• start- creamy rich, toasty, refreshing acidity, spiced baked apples, quince, and yeast
• bubbles- surprisingly light
• finish- creamy and long

Pair With: manchego cheese with quince paste, west coast oysters, and scallops.
The Last Word: A brilliant compromise to Champagne and Prosecco, although perhaps too rich for some. I would have preferred a little less oak and more bubbles. In the end, nicely balanced and tasty. 90/100

Tikal Patriota 2005

I did like this wine, but it wasn't my favorite, so I'll keep it short.

Tikal is owned by Ernesto Catena. He named this particular wine “Patriota” ( “Patriot”) since Bonarda and Malbec grapes have been at the core of Argentina 's great winemaking tradition since its foundation. The original artwork of this passionate dancing couple was created by Ernesto's close friend and artist, Ariel Mlynarzewicz.
Courtesy of VOS Selections

I suppose I was just expecting this wine to be bigger and bolder. It seems that way at first, but after having a glass, it just feels a little thin on the palate. In addition, the finish was somewhat abrupt. The taste is there, but it doesn't fully deliver. Nevertheless, it possess an elegant bouquet, which is continually enticing.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Tikal Patriota
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: 2005
Grape Varieties: 60% Bonarda, 40% Malbec

Color: Dark, rich purple rose
Nose: Strawberry, violet, cassis, tobacco, toasted oak
Palate:

• start- light on palate, floral, mild acidity, and dusty fruit

• middle- strawberry jam, raspberry, chocolate, silky tannins

• finish- shorter than expected, with lingering cherry and oak

Pair with: soft cheeses, ratatouille, and grilled kebab.
The Last word: A very pleasant wine to sip on, but falls short of spectacular. 89/100

Luigi Bosca Gala 1 - 2004

For those who don't know, Luigi Bosca is something of a household name in Argentina, gaining quick and deserved notoriety in the US. In fact, Bodega Luigi Bosca has been around in some shape or form since the beginning of the 20th century, with 1984 marking its entrance to the international market. For over a hundred years the Arizu family has been at the core of Luigi Bosca. The family is committed to progressive wine making without compromising the integrity of the wines and the terroir. In this respect, they maintain a bio-dynamic approach to growing grapes, even going so far as to plant malbec vines according to moon cycle. From the website:

We are observing the lunar cycles for some varieties, such as Malbec. In these cases, the maturation point is caused to coincide with those cycles: The variety is planted on a waning moon, in order for the roots to be stronger, and it is harvested on a full moon, so as to improve the fruit.
Courtesy of Bodega Luigi Bosca

Tasting Summary:

Name: Luigi Bosca Gala 1
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: 2004
Grape Varieties: 85% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Tannat (aged 14 months in French oak)

A dark inky purple at the core, with brilliant violet hues at the rim, Gala 1 beholds an intoxicating bouquet of ripe red berries, vanilla, and light floral notes, gently spiced with mocha and hazelnut. The first sip is a dusty oasis of plum, fig, and vanilla oak, reminiscent of the desert-like landscape from which this wine hails. As the wine opens up, so does the fruit, revealing a beautifully structured drink with mild acidity, a nice weight on the palate, and dusty tannins. The finish is long: a slow motion ride through a foggy desert trail while chewing chocolate-covered cherries.
Pair With: Game, such as lamb or wild boar, and grilled meats and vegetables.
The Last word: Bordeaux-like richness combined with classic malbec fruit makes this wine a joyful excursion from the usual fruit bombs of the New World. In addition, the packaging is awesomely smart. With an elongated neck, slim contour, stylized label (in Spanish), and metal rivet above the cork, this bottle belongs among the elite. 96/100

Ex Umbris Syrah 2006

Tonight I thought I'd treat myself to something I'd been anxious to try since it arrived in our store last week: Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah 2006 from the Columbia Valley in Washington State. I have a particular fondness for syrah, and the wine's distributor, Polaner Selections, packs a consistently compelling portfolio of sensational wines. The bottle's heft, combined with its austere minimalist design is sure to intrigue people like myself. With grapes blended from several different vineyards, clearly a great deal of thought went into this wine (note: apparently the fruit is harvested from Washington state, but the wine is produced in Oregon...curious) . In particular, the winemaker's notes emphasize the importance of terroir by noting the raging wildfire which swept through areas adjacent to one of the vineyards. Apparently past vintages (and especially the first) displayed extraordinary smokey qualities as a result of the proximity of the fires (click here for vintner's description). Each year since then has yielded consistently less smoke. And so at 2006, with this purportedly smokey wine in my hands, I am a trifle disappointed to find much more fruit than smoke upon whiffing, tasting, and whiffing again this wine. Latin for "from the shadows," Ex Umbris does, however, deliver in the flavor department, with a grand richness that definitely took some finesse from the winemaker.



Planned in advance, I had decided to cook lamb tonight, as a tribute to this syrah. As it turned out, the two went together in a delightful synergy of sweet spice and game. Spiced lamb chops with chick pea salad served well alongside this rich creamy red. The dominant flavor of strawberry preserves cut through the sweet spice of lamb and raw garlic in the salad. In addition, the rich, buttery texture of the wine provided greater fulfillment in an otherwise lighthearted meal. Towards the middle of the bottle, a strong semblance of bacon fat makes itself known among strawberry fields and blueberries in whipped cream. However, the ripe red berries tend to overwhelm the spicy characteristics of this wine, leaving me a little befuddled by the description. Perhaps Owen Roe should have taken a closer taste before slapping this promise of smoke on the back of the bottle. While I was expecting something closer to a French Hermitage, I did enjoy the wine, despite its very New Worldly demeanor. All in all, a recommended good value, but I give it a 91/100 for a slightly misleading description.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah 2006
From: Columbia Valley, Washington. USA.
Year: 2006
Grapes: 100% Syrah (from 3 different vineyards)

A thick ruby red color, Ex Umbris displays prominent aromas of strawberry preserves, blueberries, vanilla, and bacon fat. On the palate, berries and cream glide along the tongue, escorted by mild mannered silk-laden tannins. While an initial acidity defines the fruit, oak and vanilla mellow this full-bodied syrah until it concludes with a long fermata of cinnamon and a toasty encore of warm berry compote. With food, the sweet bacon-like smoke is unveiled, stirring thoughts of autumn leaves. Definitely a New World syrah with mild tannins, yet held together by a decadent buttery richness. Unexpected but unforgettable.

Note: This wine would definitely benefit from some breathing time. Decanting may be a little drastic, as the acidity could be lost through excessive exposure to oxygen. Bottom line, swirling the glass is your best bet.

Spiced lamb chops and chick pea salad:

Serves 2

Marinade:
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon ground pepper
2 bay leaves, crushed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried or fresh rosemary and/or thyme
4 lamb loin chops

For the salad:
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
4 plum tomatoes, seeds removed, diced
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
1/2 cucumber, seeds removed, diced
1/2 cucumber, peeled, sliced thin
1/8 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
1 handful mixed greens
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, crushed into a paste
5 tablespoons olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon, grated
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

One night before, combine cumin, coriander, paprika, bay leaves, dried herbs and pepper with oil and 1/4 cup red wine if you have it. Mix well and coat the lamb chops. Seal in airtight container for the following day. If you don't have the time, simply marinate for a half hour, or make a dry spice rub by omitting the oil and wine. Just be careful not to overseason the lamb.

Using the side of the knife, along with a healthy pinch of salt, scrape the crushed garlic against the cutting board until a paste-like consistency is achieved. In a large bowl, combine the chickpeas, tomatoes, cucumber, dried herbs, mint, vinegar, garlic, 3 tablespoons of the oil, the lemon zest and juice, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper; set aside to marinate.

Sprinkle some salt and fresh ground pepper on both sides of the lamb chops, and heat 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add lamb chops to the skillet. Cook to the desired doneness, 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to a plate. Arrange sliced cucumber around sides of plate, spoon chickpea salad in the middle with mixed greens (tossed in the chickpea salad marinade), and top each salad with 2 lamb chops.

Pour some wine and enjoy! Finish the meal with some cheese and chocolate for a decadently appropriate touch.

(N.B. Original recipe courtesy Fresh Direct. Modified to suit my taste and availability of ingredients.)

At last, a wine review: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza, 2002, La Mancha, Spain

So although I've sampled quite a few wines in the preceding weeks, I've finally been spurred to write a review. I suppose with all of my consumption of wine literature lately, it is not a surprise that I feel the urge to wax poetic about something. Why not the wine I drank tonight?

Name: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza
From: La Mancha, Spain
Year: 2002
Grapes:100% Tempranillo (13% alcohol)

A dark portly color, when brought to the nose, a heady bouquet of cherry and strawberry leads an aroma of licorice, followed by a dusty trail of gamey spice. On the palate, an austere weight mellows without being too formidable, and a supple acidity balances ripe berry fruit with the chocolate spice and dusty tannins. Overall, a well structured wine, priced moderately at $29.99 a bottle. Enjoy with grilled meats, stews, or even pasta bolognese as I did. For a light bite, try it with Manchego cheese. Definitely a delicious standout from one of the largest wine producing regions in Spain and the world. 95/100.

stop and smell the flowers...and the wine

Wine appreciation is in its own way an art form. The pretension in that statement is unavoidable, but it's true. There's always more to learn and more to master. Like playing an instrument or maybe more appropriately, like learning to cook. Especially in the realm of the sensual, there's a large grey area between right and wrong. In fact, one could most certainly argue there is no right or wrong. Sure, there is the technical stuff, like grape varietal, the source of the fruit, fermentation (natural or controlled yeasts, malolactic or not) aging (stainless steel, oak, ceramic), and of course the year bottled. However, when it gets down the actual analysis of the wine, the facts are academic. A wine could be perfect in all technical respects, but how it tastes and how it makes you feel is where the art lies. The beauty of a wine is truly in the tongue, or more precisely, in the nose of the beholder.

It is widely known that most of the flavors we absorb from foods and beverages are nuanced by smell. Our sense of taste is greatly limited, providing only a base upon which to build with scent. It is like a coloring book. Our tongue outlines the basic profile of the flavor, and our olfactory receptors busily color it in with any thousand different shades of aroma.

Everyone is familiar with the four primary taste sensations: salty, sour, bitter, and sweet. However, there is actually a fifth sensation known as umami, which is the response to glutamic acid, the most obvious form being monosodium glutamate, or MSG. Of course, it is also naturally occurring, mostly in fermented foods, namely parmesan cheese and soy sauce. For more information about taste, click here.

In wine circles, there is a lot of talk about palette and its vigorous and daunting training. This is most certainly an integral facet of wine appreciation. However, since odor is by far the dominant mechanism in registering taste, it is much more important to focus on the aroma, or bouquet of the wine. For this will ultimately lead you to salvation from the pretentious banter of over-zealous flavor profilers.