Renegade Rums

What's this, rum?  Some may think that spirits don't belong in the same class as wine appreciation, but they would be sorely mistaken.  Of course, there are exceptions.  We don't go around quaffing Popov vodka and sipping on Jim Beam like we would a fine scotch or a high end gin.  The same goes for rum.  While many people may find satisfaction in taking swigs out of Bacardi bottles, there are many distilleries producing some aged rums that can compete with the worlds finest single malt scotches.  One such example is the Renegade Rum Company.  The company has hand-picked rums from single-vintages (a first in the rum industry), and brought them to Scotland, where they are bottled at the Bruichladdich (pronounced brook-ladee) Distillery in Islay (eye-la).

The truly unique thing about Renegade is the additional "evolution" the rums undergo in any number of specially selected used wood casks.  There is one finished in port wood, one in madeira, even one in Chateau Y'quem casks.  For those who don't know, the latter is perhaps the most well-known producer of Sauternes in the world.  In addition to the enhanced aging process, these rums are, as previously mentioned, single-vintage.  Instead of blending cuvees from different times to achieve a uniform flavor, these rums showboat like wines, boasting precise years and locations for their births.

I recently had the opportunity to try four of Renegade's current offerings, all of which were enjoyable to say the least.  However, the one that stood out the most (and which I will most certainly buy if I can ever get my hands on it) is the Hampden, Jamaica 1992 rum finished in used Chateau Latour casks.  With a grand cru Bordeaux as its previous occupant, these casks were sure to impart something special to the rum.  And indeed they did.

What one first notices is the unusual copper rose-like color of the spirit.  To the nose, it is nothing but rich butterscotch with some floral and funky notes, undoubtedly attributed to the Latour casks.  I was brought back instantly to memories of butter rum LifeSavers.  On the palate, it is once again pure butterscotch.  There are also some mild wine-like fruity undertones, but really this is liquid candy.

Tasting Summary:

Color- copper rose

Bouquet- butterscotch, floral notes

Palate- butterscotch, fruitcake

I would be lying if I said this didn't blow me away.  The second time I tried this rum, I just stood there sniffing it.  The nose is so intoxicating it's hard to put down, which might prove dangerous to some.  Going down, this is smoother than any other spirit I've ever tried.  The alcohol is so well-integrated that you barely notice its presence until you've plowed through your second or third pour and try to stand up without smiling.  A terrific alternative to a dessert wine or scotch.  In fact, this is dessert!  Keep around at all times.  97/100

La Linda Torrontes 2007

Torrontes is a little known grape that is beginning to find its way into the American market. Grown mostly in Argentina, this grape produces distinctive, floral wines with unique character. Crios has been very popular, but I find the La Linda torrontes more seductive.

Tasting Summary:

Color- clear greenish pale straw

Bouquet- melon, citrus, woody vanilla

Palate- stone fruits- peach, nectarine, citrus

With a surprising weight on the palate and a creamy texture, this torrontes showcases more of the fruity characteristics of this grape. The spicy floral notes of other torrontes take a back seat here. Although the alcohol could be slightly more integrated, for the price, you can't beat the value here. Not too acidic, and not too sweet. A lovely and pleasant balance for a refreshing white by itself or with some cheeses such as ricotta, or with smoked meats, even foie gras. Change the pace with torrontes.  91/100

Luigi Bosca DOC Malbec 2004

As any observant individual can see, I review a large proportion of Argentinean wines, most notably malbec.  Well, here we have another terrific example of how this grape is fast becoming a noble variety on par with many Cabernets and Syrahs.  In France the Malbec plays a mostly subordinate role in winemaking, relegating it to a blending grape in Bordeaux, or in the case of the Cahors appellation, a dustier and lighter version of its lustrous cousin in South America.  Somehow, in the hills of Mendoza, this fruit thrives to become a chewy, floral, fragrant intoxicant, barely reminiscent of its French counterpart.  

Luigi Bosca has once again proved itself a master at taming this juicy beast with a DOC malbec.  Yes, a DOC.  In fact, Luigi Bosca pioneered the movement to create a DOC especially for malbec.  It was created in 1989 for the Luján de Cuyo region, where the malbec grape is claimed to be indigenous.  DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, an Italian term used to regulate the growing and producing of wines in various regions therein.  In Argentina, it operates in the same respect, controlling the production of wines from this region, guaranteeing origin, and ostensibly, quality.  Anyhow, more information can be found on Luigi Bosca's website here.

Tasting Summary:

Color- intense violet

Bouquet- plum, violets, cassis, mild wet earth.

Palate- plum, ripe black fruits, earth.  Silky tannins.

finish:  coffee, cocoa.  Long and elegant.

An elegant wine with an intoxicating nose, this DOC captures some of the more old world aspects of malbec, while still retaining the brilliant fruit we associate with new world wines.  94/100

Matteo Correggia Roero DOC 2004

Let me start by saying that the Piedmont is one of my favorite wine regions in the world. The nebbiolo grape produces such a wide variety of wines, but they are always bursting with flavor. It is unfortunate that this area takes such a backseat to tuscany, but with lower prices, it is becoming more accessible. This Roero (which is a DOC area adjacent to Barolo) wasn't terribly complex, but was enjoyable nonetheless.

Color- Bright ruby red

Bouquet- lacquer, strawberry, light oak and vanilly notes

Palate- Bright acidity with floral qualities. Bright red berries, sticky tannins and mild oak. Medium long finish with lasting hazelnut flavors.

This wine opened up very nicely, and definitely benefits from some breathing time. The acidity is bright and so pairs better with food than by itself. I had it with a pasta bolognese, which worked, although a darker wine would have been preferable. This could be served with some meat dishes and the usual Northern Italian fare. Overall a nice nebbiolo for around 20 dollars, and a better value than some high end barolos. 90/100

Alamos Malbec 2006

Maybe it was just me, but I was a trifle disappointed with this wine. Catena's reputation bolsters it's ability to sell it's brands, even if the wine is subpar. In the past, Alamos has proven a solid, reliable buy for malbec drinkers, but perhaps the '06 is just too young. It seems promising at first, with a brilliant dark ruby color and plum, prune and jammy notes on the nose. But on the palate, the lightly spiced dark berry fruits are overwhelmed by unchecked acidity and rough tannins. Full bodied with hints of mild grassy earth and cocoa on the finish, Alamos under-delivered for me. The flavor is there, but the alcohol is not integrated as well as it should be. There are better values out there for malbec lovers. 83/100

Finca La Linda Extra Brut

Another wine from Luigi Bosca, this time with some bubbles. Although the wine-maker claims there to be little to no oak in the aging of the wine, I found it to be quite oaky in character. Perhaps the production method of this sparkler has changed. In either case, it was decadently rich and decidedly enjoyable.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Finca La Linda Extra Brut
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: n/a
Grape Varieties: 50% Chardonnay, 50% Semillon (12% alc.)

Color: Rich golden straw
Nose: apple, strawberry, oak, vanilla, touch of cinnamon at the end.
Palate:

• start- creamy rich, toasty, refreshing acidity, spiced baked apples, quince, and yeast
• bubbles- surprisingly light
• finish- creamy and long

Pair With: manchego cheese with quince paste, west coast oysters, and scallops.
The Last Word: A brilliant compromise to Champagne and Prosecco, although perhaps too rich for some. I would have preferred a little less oak and more bubbles. In the end, nicely balanced and tasty. 90/100

Tikal Patriota 2005

I did like this wine, but it wasn't my favorite, so I'll keep it short.

Tikal is owned by Ernesto Catena. He named this particular wine “Patriota” ( “Patriot”) since Bonarda and Malbec grapes have been at the core of Argentina 's great winemaking tradition since its foundation. The original artwork of this passionate dancing couple was created by Ernesto's close friend and artist, Ariel Mlynarzewicz.
Courtesy of VOS Selections

I suppose I was just expecting this wine to be bigger and bolder. It seems that way at first, but after having a glass, it just feels a little thin on the palate. In addition, the finish was somewhat abrupt. The taste is there, but it doesn't fully deliver. Nevertheless, it possess an elegant bouquet, which is continually enticing.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Tikal Patriota
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: 2005
Grape Varieties: 60% Bonarda, 40% Malbec

Color: Dark, rich purple rose
Nose: Strawberry, violet, cassis, tobacco, toasted oak
Palate:

• start- light on palate, floral, mild acidity, and dusty fruit

• middle- strawberry jam, raspberry, chocolate, silky tannins

• finish- shorter than expected, with lingering cherry and oak

Pair with: soft cheeses, ratatouille, and grilled kebab.
The Last word: A very pleasant wine to sip on, but falls short of spectacular. 89/100

Luigi Bosca Gala 1 - 2004

For those who don't know, Luigi Bosca is something of a household name in Argentina, gaining quick and deserved notoriety in the US. In fact, Bodega Luigi Bosca has been around in some shape or form since the beginning of the 20th century, with 1984 marking its entrance to the international market. For over a hundred years the Arizu family has been at the core of Luigi Bosca. The family is committed to progressive wine making without compromising the integrity of the wines and the terroir. In this respect, they maintain a bio-dynamic approach to growing grapes, even going so far as to plant malbec vines according to moon cycle. From the website:

We are observing the lunar cycles for some varieties, such as Malbec. In these cases, the maturation point is caused to coincide with those cycles: The variety is planted on a waning moon, in order for the roots to be stronger, and it is harvested on a full moon, so as to improve the fruit.
Courtesy of Bodega Luigi Bosca

Tasting Summary:

Name: Luigi Bosca Gala 1
From: Mendoza, Argentina
Year: 2004
Grape Varieties: 85% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Tannat (aged 14 months in French oak)

A dark inky purple at the core, with brilliant violet hues at the rim, Gala 1 beholds an intoxicating bouquet of ripe red berries, vanilla, and light floral notes, gently spiced with mocha and hazelnut. The first sip is a dusty oasis of plum, fig, and vanilla oak, reminiscent of the desert-like landscape from which this wine hails. As the wine opens up, so does the fruit, revealing a beautifully structured drink with mild acidity, a nice weight on the palate, and dusty tannins. The finish is long: a slow motion ride through a foggy desert trail while chewing chocolate-covered cherries.
Pair With: Game, such as lamb or wild boar, and grilled meats and vegetables.
The Last word: Bordeaux-like richness combined with classic malbec fruit makes this wine a joyful excursion from the usual fruit bombs of the New World. In addition, the packaging is awesomely smart. With an elongated neck, slim contour, stylized label (in Spanish), and metal rivet above the cork, this bottle belongs among the elite. 96/100

Ex Umbris Syrah 2006

Tonight I thought I'd treat myself to something I'd been anxious to try since it arrived in our store last week: Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah 2006 from the Columbia Valley in Washington State. I have a particular fondness for syrah, and the wine's distributor, Polaner Selections, packs a consistently compelling portfolio of sensational wines. The bottle's heft, combined with its austere minimalist design is sure to intrigue people like myself. With grapes blended from several different vineyards, clearly a great deal of thought went into this wine (note: apparently the fruit is harvested from Washington state, but the wine is produced in Oregon...curious) . In particular, the winemaker's notes emphasize the importance of terroir by noting the raging wildfire which swept through areas adjacent to one of the vineyards. Apparently past vintages (and especially the first) displayed extraordinary smokey qualities as a result of the proximity of the fires (click here for vintner's description). Each year since then has yielded consistently less smoke. And so at 2006, with this purportedly smokey wine in my hands, I am a trifle disappointed to find much more fruit than smoke upon whiffing, tasting, and whiffing again this wine. Latin for "from the shadows," Ex Umbris does, however, deliver in the flavor department, with a grand richness that definitely took some finesse from the winemaker.



Planned in advance, I had decided to cook lamb tonight, as a tribute to this syrah. As it turned out, the two went together in a delightful synergy of sweet spice and game. Spiced lamb chops with chick pea salad served well alongside this rich creamy red. The dominant flavor of strawberry preserves cut through the sweet spice of lamb and raw garlic in the salad. In addition, the rich, buttery texture of the wine provided greater fulfillment in an otherwise lighthearted meal. Towards the middle of the bottle, a strong semblance of bacon fat makes itself known among strawberry fields and blueberries in whipped cream. However, the ripe red berries tend to overwhelm the spicy characteristics of this wine, leaving me a little befuddled by the description. Perhaps Owen Roe should have taken a closer taste before slapping this promise of smoke on the back of the bottle. While I was expecting something closer to a French Hermitage, I did enjoy the wine, despite its very New Worldly demeanor. All in all, a recommended good value, but I give it a 91/100 for a slightly misleading description.

Tasting Summary:

Name: Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah 2006
From: Columbia Valley, Washington. USA.
Year: 2006
Grapes: 100% Syrah (from 3 different vineyards)

A thick ruby red color, Ex Umbris displays prominent aromas of strawberry preserves, blueberries, vanilla, and bacon fat. On the palate, berries and cream glide along the tongue, escorted by mild mannered silk-laden tannins. While an initial acidity defines the fruit, oak and vanilla mellow this full-bodied syrah until it concludes with a long fermata of cinnamon and a toasty encore of warm berry compote. With food, the sweet bacon-like smoke is unveiled, stirring thoughts of autumn leaves. Definitely a New World syrah with mild tannins, yet held together by a decadent buttery richness. Unexpected but unforgettable.

Note: This wine would definitely benefit from some breathing time. Decanting may be a little drastic, as the acidity could be lost through excessive exposure to oxygen. Bottom line, swirling the glass is your best bet.

Spiced lamb chops and chick pea salad:

Serves 2

Marinade:
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon ground pepper
2 bay leaves, crushed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried or fresh rosemary and/or thyme
4 lamb loin chops

For the salad:
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
4 plum tomatoes, seeds removed, diced
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
1/2 cucumber, seeds removed, diced
1/2 cucumber, peeled, sliced thin
1/8 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
1 handful mixed greens
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, crushed into a paste
5 tablespoons olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon, grated
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

One night before, combine cumin, coriander, paprika, bay leaves, dried herbs and pepper with oil and 1/4 cup red wine if you have it. Mix well and coat the lamb chops. Seal in airtight container for the following day. If you don't have the time, simply marinate for a half hour, or make a dry spice rub by omitting the oil and wine. Just be careful not to overseason the lamb.

Using the side of the knife, along with a healthy pinch of salt, scrape the crushed garlic against the cutting board until a paste-like consistency is achieved. In a large bowl, combine the chickpeas, tomatoes, cucumber, dried herbs, mint, vinegar, garlic, 3 tablespoons of the oil, the lemon zest and juice, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper; set aside to marinate.

Sprinkle some salt and fresh ground pepper on both sides of the lamb chops, and heat 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add lamb chops to the skillet. Cook to the desired doneness, 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to a plate. Arrange sliced cucumber around sides of plate, spoon chickpea salad in the middle with mixed greens (tossed in the chickpea salad marinade), and top each salad with 2 lamb chops.

Pour some wine and enjoy! Finish the meal with some cheese and chocolate for a decadently appropriate touch.

(N.B. Original recipe courtesy Fresh Direct. Modified to suit my taste and availability of ingredients.)

At last, a wine review: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza, 2002, La Mancha, Spain

So although I've sampled quite a few wines in the preceding weeks, I've finally been spurred to write a review. I suppose with all of my consumption of wine literature lately, it is not a surprise that I feel the urge to wax poetic about something. Why not the wine I drank tonight?

Name: Alejandro Fernández El Vínculo Crianza
From: La Mancha, Spain
Year: 2002
Grapes:100% Tempranillo (13% alcohol)

A dark portly color, when brought to the nose, a heady bouquet of cherry and strawberry leads an aroma of licorice, followed by a dusty trail of gamey spice. On the palate, an austere weight mellows without being too formidable, and a supple acidity balances ripe berry fruit with the chocolate spice and dusty tannins. Overall, a well structured wine, priced moderately at $29.99 a bottle. Enjoy with grilled meats, stews, or even pasta bolognese as I did. For a light bite, try it with Manchego cheese. Definitely a delicious standout from one of the largest wine producing regions in Spain and the world. 95/100.